Hilltribe village tour around Mae Hong Son

From link::cactuschild.blogspot


I decided upon a tour of the surrounding hilltribe villages for today, which i booked through Nam Rim tours. The company were recommended in the Lonely Planet, and the guide, Dam, seemed a very funny and knowledgeable guy with a fantastic grasp of the English language. He also knows a lot of the various Karen languages, and as he has a Kayan (longneck) girlfriend and used to work in Myanmar (where the Karen people have migrated from), we (me and a French lady called Francoise) did get a little bit of a more intimate and personal view of their lives.

Nai Soi Village

It costs 250THB to gain entry into the Karen village of Soryolay (or Nai Soi as it's more commonly known), yet only 10% of that goes to the Karen people themselves and the surrounding refugee camps. So they make their money selling handicrafts, which did give the village a very tourist-orientated feel.

The Kayan (longneck) people wear their rings from the age of around 5 or 6 years old. Some wear them on their limbs as well but most solely on the neck - hence the name 'longneck'. Contrary to belief, the rings do not stretch their necks; they depress the collarbone and ribcage, which gives the impression of the neck being unnaturally stretched. The rings around the neck can weigh up to 14kg but the normal weight of the ones worn by an adult woman is 5-6kg. The rings are only taken off 9 times in the women's lives : to change them as the collarbone and ribcage become more depressed.

The rings are worn for 3 reasons :

1.
To make the women look beautiful
2.
To warn off the interest of Thai men
3.
To distinguish them from other hilltribes

Also in the Nai Soi village live Kaya (red Karen) and Kayew (long eared Karen). There is a school in the village where the children learn Karen, Thai, Burmese and English languages. The villagers are a mixture of Buddhist and Christian religions so you will see both temples and churches existing side by side.

A great deal of time on the tour was spent in Nai Soi but we also visited a nearby Shan (Thai Yai) village which is part of the Royal Project for the King and Queen. The Shan cultivate coffee and tea and avocados in place of opium and the women spend their time making embroidery. The King and Queen have instigated the supply of electricity and fresh water to the village so that these projects can be undertaken more successfully.

Hmong Village of Huai Mae Korsom

After lunch and the best cup of coffee i've had in Thailand at the Shan village, we visited a local Hmong tribe. Their houses (made of wood or thatch) sit on the ground. Their belief system is Animism (taken from the latin word 'anima' meaning 'breath' or 'soul') and is a belief that a soul or spirit exists in every object, even if it is inanminate. Pologamy is also poermitted in the Hmong tribe, so some men have up top 4 wives.

Mae Aw
Mae Aw is 22km north of Mae Hong Son, on a mountain peak at the Myanmar border. Mae Aw is it's Chinese name, as it's a Chinese KMT settlement, but it's name has recently been changed to Ban Rak Thai (Thai loving village). There's not a lot to do here other than drink lots of tea (we tried Green, Jasmine & Udong) but the surrounding scenery is stunning.
Tham Pla (Fish Cave)

Tham Pla is a water-filled cavern in the Tham Pla National Park, where hundreds of Soro brook carp thrive. They grow to 1 metre in length and are found only in the provinces of Mae Hong Son, Ranong, Chiang Mai, Rayong, Chanthanaburi and Kanchanaburi. There's also a shrine centered around a statue of the Hindu rishi called Nara, said to protect the holy fish from danger. Just at the start of the walk up to Than Pla are several (it's difficult to tell how many as they're all entwined together) Monkey Ladders, which - until now - i never knew existed other than as a strange and interesting product you could buy from The Pier back in the UK!

Photo is of a Kayan (longneck) women with baby, Nai Soi, Nr Mae Hong Son।

From link::cactuschild.blogspot

Other links::The life of Pai
Lovepaihome

Pai In The Sky

Pai In The Sky
Pai, Thailand
By Tim Schorzman

From link::www.bootsnall.com

Pai is the kind of place I'd be inclined to despise if there wasn't so much that I liked here. You run into similar situations all over Thailand and most of southeast Asia. Farang, Westerners, come through, stay awhile, find something about the place they like and then never leave. Over time, word of mouth gets out and others flock to the area. Everybody contributes what they will and the next thing you know, the place is transformed into whatever these farang want it to be, dragging whatever natives are willing with them, pushing the unwilling into their corners of town to deal with themselves.



This is the conundrum of tourism, I suppose - a cancer that moves from place to place, leaving its mark wherever it goes until it gets saturated, cursing its own poison and wondering why nobody wants it anymore. It is a virus whose only purpose, in the end, is its own pleasure, knowledge and enrichment. It is whatever we choose to do with all these experiences that makes the difference between a compassionate wanderer and a lethal death-ray 3000 culture-killer. The ride to Pai from either direction - east from Chiang Mai or west from Mae Hong Son - is on one of the most beautiful, gut-wrenching mountain passes known to man. You get plenty of chances to gawk as the bus or truck or van huffs along, trying to climb these hills, gears cranking, pistons screaming, brakes threatening to snap in half, animals scurrying in all directions for fear the Great Metal Devil will veer right off the road and chase them into the jungle. Three-thousand feet hills, covered in jungle forest, dominate the landscape and jagged peaks everywhere. It is an unpredictable terrain - as though God designed it while riding a bucking bronco. You zoom down the hill and there's the little town, scrunched in between. You feel cozy the second you step off the bus. There are three guest houses, two restaurants, a small store and a place to rent motorbikes within 50 steps of the bus station - food, bed, transportation at the snap of a finger. As you turn left down the main street, the only thing you notice is the swirling mass of a marketplace. A lady spins scarves and blankets on a loom to your right. Bead shops, yoga classes, massages, 500 ways to find inner-peace-through-meditation courses. A girl zooms by on a bike, stuffing a flyer for an acoustic guitar show at a Sheesha bar in your hand. Every conceivable food stand, even fried beetles and frogs, surround you. Fresh-baked bread shops, tribal crafts, motorbikes crashing into the shoulder-to-shoulder foray are everywhere. Rafting and trekking guide offices, internet shops and the biggest assortment of bookstores per capita than any other place in Thailand. A Mosque. You can see everybody, from longhaired, hippie professors on sabbatical, to kids fresh out of school, to punk rock Thais and wrinkled old men playing checkers. The whole place reeks of incense, patchouli, grilled sausages and curry. It's a 15-minute walk out of town, across the river and through a meadow to the Sun Huts, my chosen place of lodging. I got some advice along the way to stay there, and from the looks of it, it is good advice. Five kittens, two tail-wagging dogs and a rabbit greet me. The orange and black bird in the seven feet-tall cage announces my arrival. Orn, one of the owners, is a tiny, middle-aged Thai lady with a soft voice and that cute, homey, motherliness demeanor. She shows me how to write my name in Thai script. She gives me a sample of a yogurt made from herbacea plant (which apparently helps my heart and digestive system) before I've even signed myself in. A small pool with a waterfall sits next to a gazebo with books, games, pillows and the ultimate monument to chilling out, hammocks. Hammocks are everywhere. You can help yourself to the coffee, tea and Ovaltine. And grandma makes the best banana pancakes. If you've been traveling for awhile, from places like Austin, New Orleans or Chicago, the Bebop Café is the perfect place to feel homesick. Brick-walled, high-ceilinged, leather couches and B.B. King paraphernalia. The house band for the weekend - a strange hodgepodge of Thais that look like Bootsy Collins, Les Claypool, and Snoop Dogg mixed in a blender - jam out all night playing a Bob Marley-meets-Parliament with James Brown free styling in really bad Thai-English kind of funk. Purists scoff, but everyone else is feeling good, knowing they would. Booze is cheap, vibes good, and half the world is represented. Now if I could just find my motorbike. Most of the Thais who live around Pai descend from one of the nearby hill-tribe villages. If you hike in any direction, you won't go far before you run into one of these quaint little places. The Opium Trade from the Golden Triangle extends all the way down here. Almost every village has seen substantial financial benefits at some point. In fact, villagers attribute most major improvements to opium money. Addiction levels are high, obviously, but you won't hear too many complaints, especially from the older people. Opium is given medicinally, almost like cough syrup, to almost everyone. It rivals prescription drugs in the West. It's an interesting problem. "Just try living on two cups of rice and a few chilies a day, in thatched-leaf huts in a difficult terrain," says Mr. Lert, our trek guide who hails from one of these villages, "and it's easy to see when someone offers you a 50-pound bag of rice, five pigs and 10 chickens for a crop of opium, why you keep growing it." The government is beginning to crack down. The resurgent push to address the drug problem in the country puts these villages in the cross hairs - fields burned, people arrested, even worse. There is growing concern as to their futures without this crop. The battle rages on. Hiking across these lands can be as rewarding as it is challenging. We bushwhack our way through thick jungle, up one hill, down another, for days on end. Yet from the peaks of one of these hills, you can see Pai in the distance, and the stunning views of valleys and trees in all directions. Bamboo trees double as rice cookers, pottery, rafts, recliners, teakettles and eating utensils. You can even craft a popgun - only a sharp carving knife away. The smorgasbords of jungle fruits are face-scrunchingly sour and nuts are plentiful. We had to beat two cobras out of our camp over the night, and there's a whole zoo of millipedes, lizards and spiders to keep things exciting. Pai means "go" in Thai, which is interesting because nobody seems to go anywhere once they get here. It's terribly overrun with farang, people who get caught up in the magic and forget to go home. It's a powerful place. If you plan to move on in three days, five days later you're polishing off your third mango shake, lazily heaping yourself out of the hammock and deciding to ride to the hot springs down the road, which you meant to do the second day. A night sipping homemade Chai tea - listening to jazz in the Tea Room - a few days of hiking or rafting down the Mae Nam Pai - one of Abodya's masaman curries - and you're caught in the Matrix too. Another victim who fell in love and just couldn't leave. A Jedi craves not these things.

From link::www.bootsnall.com

Other links::Living with Lisu Hilltribe
Chiang Mai -water festival

Chang Mai- Pai (Thailand)

From link::kateharland.vox.com

So I left you last time- in Chang Mai, at a nice comfy hotel- along with both of our stomachs! We left 9amish and climbed into a small minibus with a rather loopy driver. Unfortunately, Jamie and loopy drivers do not mix at the best of times and after several hours of THE windiest roads I have seen in my life, he wasn't feeling very happy with himself!

However windy the roads were, the mountains made up for it...so so pretty. We stopped half way for a loo break and I ordered a banana shake which I later came to regret...read on and you'll find out why! I gave Jamie the sea sickness tablets we had for sailing in Barbados, suprisingly, he accepted them and felt much better afterwards...strange that!

We arrived in Pai with slight concern as to what we were actually going to do for a week...a village with 3,000 people only, a hippy heaven...we weren't sure what to expect. So as we piled out of the minibus, we sort of just stood, with our backpacks on, in the middle of the road, just gazing! There were literally dozens and dozens of cafes, restaurants, guesthouses, bars, mexican eat houses in all directions! Things were boding rather well!

We made our way in the 35 degree heat of the day to the nearest bar for a much needed coca cola, and tried ot figure out where to stay. Low budget, whatever we could get I guess. Jamie got chatting to a couple of Spanish hippies who directed us towards a bamboo bridge across the river where we would find a selection of cheap bungalows! Great!

So off we trotted- aggh, face to face with a rather rickety looking bridge...10 bamboo poles in a row again tethered together with little bamboo mats with holes in. Not being a huge fan of these types of bridges, can imagine things going terribly wrong, we slowly made our heavy way across to the other side and for 150 baht (2.60) we received the keys to a bamboo room on stilts with a matress on the floor, a mozzie net and fan, complete with hole in all four sides! Comfortable and would do happily for a night.

I slept like a log, as usual in these rather uncomfortable places, Jamie however was not so lucky and woke up several times with a dead shoulder and leg! Around 2am, leaving Jamie asleepish, I headed out to the shared toilets (they were lit with electricity). As my dad fondly remembers me as a child with my panties around my ankles screaming at the top of my voice with my feet in the air whilsta rather large spider raced at the toilet...he will sit and giggle at the idea of a tarantula doing a similar thing at me, now 19 years of age! IT WAS NOT AMUSING AT ALL! I have never removed my bottoms so fast! This massive spider just came out of nowhere, I literally jumped off the loo, stripped off, then jumped up and down trying to either kill it or scare it away. Then ran back to the hut in my knickers holding the trousers and crawled back into bed shaking next to Jamie! He just sat there and laughed at me- the bugger!

The following mornng, a very quick decision was made that a private bathroom was needed that was totally secure to the outside world. So we upgraded, and now we have a bamboo bungalow complete with tv and a real bed! SPider free...not so, after about 10 minutes of being there, I noticed a smallish one above Jamies head! I pointed out to him and he jumped out of his skin and joined me at the other side of the room. On a ratio of fear, he lost and had to grab a glass and paper to get rid of it outside! hahahaha!

After that, we hit our swimming pool! Yes, for 2 pounds each a night, we have our own swimming pool!! Ice cold, very refreshing! After a few hours at the pool, I began to feel funny...o oh, quick dash back to our bungalow and the beginning of a fun few days began. It turned out that- beingthe only thing that I had and Jamie did not, the banana shake the previous day had been made with local water- straight from the river...well we saw for oursleves and flushed it oursleves what the Thai people pump into their rivers! I do not need to expand on details, but 48 hours later and after buckets of magic pills, I was feeling much better! Jamie looked after me well and made up for leaving me in Chang mai...he is forgiven!

Donning the sunglasses as I had not been outdoors in a while this morning, we headed out for a breakfast of steak sandwich and french fries (or chips as I keep forgetting to call them now). After that, we decided we needed an adrenaline rush- so we hired a 125cc motorbike! Those who know me, and those who know Jamie will realise that neither of us have ever driven a bike before in our lives! Hahahahahaaa! It's perfectly legal out here to drive without a liscense- we have seen children younder than 10 doing it! We were given helmets though- among the few on the road who do wear them...most people are husband wife and 3 children on one bike and whoever sits on the back will get the one and only helmet they can afford to own.

So there we are, teaching ourselves how to drive a bike...Jamie is a natural the lucky thing, he took to it straight away and has decided he wants to get a liscense in the UK...shock horror! Me however, after revving the engine by accident whilst trying to turn it around, I only nearly hit several fences! Corners aren't so great either! I did better on the long run though, Jamie was on the back- I'm getting better at starting off as well, there's only a moderate chance that we'll miss the forward position and hit the ditch instead...maybe I will let Jamie drive tomorrow!

We spent a fantastic afternoon with the wind in my hair (Jamie's is much too short at the moment), and cruised around the country roads of Pai. It is beautiful, forests are similar to ours at home in the UK, only greener and hotter. Roads are full of potholes, and crazy people are always overtaking at horrendous speeds, but rather them than me! Here we actually get to see what they are talking about on the news all the time...the farmers here do not understand what damage they are doing, but they just set fire and to and burn vast parts of the forest down to clear space for agriculture...rice paddies. Fires have been burning on the surrounding hills since we arrived here, it's very sad to watch. We cruised past more elephant camps, actually met one on the road- the same as passing a horse, only 5 times the size and a rather bizarre sight! We stopped off in a roadside cafe for some drinks, it turned out the man lived there, he had a breeze block room which when he opened the door for our change, it contained only mats and blankets to sleep on- that's all he had. Poeple are very very poor over here, even more so than Mexico or Belize. They just spend their days swinging in hammocks waiting for white people like us to come and buy their goods so that they can eat that night...we can't buy everything and I always feel so bad refusing things.

Anyway, returning home, we did the usual, bought more water, climbed into our room, had a cold shower and sat under the fan watching tv cooling off...a lovely end to a lovely day out on the bike! Off for something hopefully edible to eat now. We leave for Chang Mai on 26th March ready to catch a boat into Laos that will take 2 days...from there...we have no idea what it will be like. I will probably update again in Chang Mai, if you do not hear from us for a couple of weeks, do not panick, we are way off the beaten track and the chances of there being normal things like tv, internet, phones...are slim!

Goodbye for now!

Kate and Jamie xxx

From link::kateharland.vox.com

Other links::More Wildlife Wanderings in Pai
Pai (but no pie in sight!)

Pai (but no pie in sight!)

From link::www.travelpod.com

The journey to Pai was again spectacular and we ventured through some beautiful hill country and it has to be said steep and windy roads but Pai was well worth it! Its a v laidback little town and a bit of a backpackers haven really!

Pai proved to be our first attempt at killing ourselves exercise wise by sensibly hiring bikes in the heat of the day and attempting to ride 8km to a waterfall which was all uphill! You can imagine how enchanted I was! Why do you think I never rode a bike growing up...hills I hate them and it proves how unfit I am (that's the real reason!)

My husband - Mr Stamina - just keeps going while I puff and pant away geting frustrated with the gears (can you believe I'm 27 and have never used a bike with gears before! How embarassing!) Anyway, after stubbing my toe about 6 times and swearing like a good 'un, we finally reached the waterfall which was lovely and worth the perspiration but was I glad the way back was all downhill! Think I'm going to have to work on the old fitness levels!

In the late afternoon, we went to a nearby elephant camp and went on an amazing trek on the back of an elephant around the Pai countryside and through the river! We timed it just right as it all happened just as the sun was setting - stunning and really peaceful! It could even have been classified as romantic - although I'm sure Paul would disagree! He was too busy taking pictures of the elephants going to the toilet! NICE!

We finished the day having a very chilled out meal in a little restaurant which I think led to the demise of my tummy over the next few days.....

From link::www.travelpod.com

Other links::More Wildlife Wanderings in Pai